Thursday 20 February 2020

Kiosk to Opeongo 2020 - Trip Report

Heart of the Park - Kiosk to Opeongo - Algonquin Park Canoe Trip Report

August 10 - August 28, 2019 
an introduction



Time is the longest distance between two places. 
Tennessee Williams


click on any photo or map for full view
Erables Lake, Algonquin Park, Ontario

via
Kiosk, Maple Creek, Maple Lake, Erables, Skuce, Little Nadine, Little Osler, Osler, Nadine, Nipissing River, High Falls, Remona, Whiskey Jack, Robinson, Burntroot, Red Pine Bay, Longer, Big Trout, Merchant, Happy Isle, Redrock, Opeongo


Particulars

  • # Portages 27 = 20 km total distance @ double carry = 60 km.
  • Longest Portage 1930m (Route includes the infamous Heart Attack Hill 995m into Little Osler)
  • Longest Portaging Day - Day 9 - 4090 meters (times 3)
  • Total Distance of route – 103 km.
  • 6 Relaxation Days for exploring and photographs


Equipment

  • Purple Pack - 50 (plus) pounds (especially when wet)
  • Red Pack - 35 pounds (seal-line does not take on water)
  • Large Yellow Barrel - food - 60 pounds
  • Small Blue Barrel - dog food and miscellaneous - 36 pounds
  • Langford Canoe - 48 pounds
  • Norman's Day Pack (camera etc.)
  • Tess's Day Pack (used a hip belt with pouches...did not work, could not carry barrels or packs while wearing)



The Trip Report

When researching this trip it was hard to find reports on our specific route so I tried to include as much information as possible regarding portages, lakes and campsites. I did take notes through out, at least until Big Trout when my pen ran out of ink.

The report is photo-heavy. I hope the pictures give you a sense of what it was like being there.  If you click on an image (including the maps) they will open large.

As you scroll down through the days you will eventually get to "older posts," which you can click on and the report continues. Or you can use the search engine, enter the Lake of interest to jump to that specific post.

There is also a post on Food Preparation and Recipes at the end of the blog.

If the report doesn't answer some of your questions please feel free to email me at tess@algonquintreks.ca.


The we why and how


Norm and Tess - heading out
Norman and I have been tripping for over 45 years now.  We go on several canoe trips each season, but it has been quite a few years since we planned a long and challenging route. As we are not getting any younger I thought "now or never." In retrospect, I was wrong. While portages like heart attack hill or those with marathon distances are harder because we are older, they are still doable; only slower, with lots of rest days built in for recovery and importantly, eating a high energy diet with enough calories.

So the seeds for our 2019 adventure were planted. We have always wanted to explore the centre of the park. I have always wanted to get to the headwaters of Algonquin Park; the Oslers and Nadines, Robinson and Burntroot.

So I meticulously planned the trip giving us enough time to take many days off along the way, as much for rest as for the opportunity to swim, explore and take photos. 

The route could definitely be completed in a shorter amount of time.

But, I have this desire to be still, to gather a sense of place around me. I need to be present to know a place, to feel I belong. This is something that cannot be rushed.

I think this is a challenging route even for younger folks who are experienced and in good shape. Some of the portages are considered by many to be the hardest in the Park. Some of the lakes are very large wind traps. The rivers were full of canoe-coloured boulder gardens lurking just below the water's surface. There were huge beaver dams to drag over, shallow bogs that held our boat as we humped our way through. And portages so steep I was crawling on all fours to carry the barrels to the top.

A huge challenge was preparing enough food for nineteen days that could be reasonably packed and carried. Another was arranging a shuttle. Lucky for us friends were camping on Kiosk during the same time as our trip so they were able to drive our car down to Opeongo on their way home.  That was a big hurdle easily overcome. The food, not so easy, so I have dedicated a page to my process.

I am full of gratitude for having had this opportunity and realize how privileged we are to live beside the park and to have the time we needed. It was an amazing experience, difficult at times, but worth it. I'd go again in a heart beat.

















Tuesday 14 January 2020

Day 1 - Kioshkokwi Lake (Kiosk)


Heart of the Park - Kiosk to Opeongo - Algonquin Park Canoe Trip Report

Kiosk Lake

on our way!

click on any photo or map for full view



Campsite Rating:

  • Water Access: Good - paddle to the southeast of the point for a sandy beach landing
  • Tent Sites: Excellent - three good sized flat tent sites
  • Fire pit - Good fire pit and nice benches, but exposed to wind
  • Firewood:  Poor - no dead-fall or dead standing anywhere near the campsite
  • Kybo - Good
  • Swimming - Awesome
  • Scenery - Awesome

Easiest travel day of our trip! We stayed at my son's place in Callander so the drive to the Kiosk was only an hour. Kiosk is one of the many lakes we had never been to. It was a busy Saturday at the permit office, but we were not in a hurry. We eventually got our permit, parked the car, loaded the canoe and headed off into the wind and waves in the direction of Maple Creek. 

Busy access on Kiosk
Kiosk is the last big lake we would travel until Burntroot.  All the lakes between Kiosk and Burntroot are comparatively small.  All the portages between these two lakes are extremely steep and mostly uphill.  

Kiosk is pretty but the wind can really kick up the water. We had to tack our way south and then east to reach our destination campsite. 

Kiosk Lake Campsite

The campsite (noted on the map above) is on a windy point and faces a Park Ranger's camp. With binoculars we could see buildings and an an SUV as well as people walking on the beach.  There are motor boats and cottages on the lake and quite a few canoe routes begin and end on Kiosk, so lots of canoe traffic.

But, we really liked the campsite. Around the rocky point there is a beach landing in the lee (doubling as a warm sunny place to sip coffee). And, there is a gorgeous view of the lake and sunset from the high-up rock outcrop. What more could you ask for on your first night out!


First of many beautiful sunsets

Sunset paddle on Kiosk

Tent Site - not quite under the Widow Maker





Sunday 12 January 2020

Day 2 - Maple Creek

Heart of the Park - Kiosk to Opeongo - Algonquin Park Canoe Trip Report

Maple Creek
Barrels Leaches and Beaver Dams

Day 2 – AUGUST 11 - Maple Creek
Portages are mostly uphill
915, 190, 130, 630
Camp at the bottom of the falls on Maple Creek (there were no falls!)

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Campsite Rating:
  • Water Access: Leave canoe at water - short walk up hill to site
  • Tent Sites: Room for 3 tents - old tent platforms visible
  • Fire Pit - acceptable
  • Firewood:  Tons
  • Kybo - Best
  • Swimming - Not recommended!
  • Scenery - The campsite is under the canopy of big trees. No river view.

First real day of the trip. We paddled the short distance to the portage (no signage by the way) and unloaded onto a grassy landing. Norman picked up the canoe and his day pack and headed off. My plan was to carry both barrels. I soon realized this was not going to happen until we ate some weight. Together they were 100 pounds. I used to be able to carry that much. Not any more.

I was only able to carry both barrels the distance on shorter portages until we ate some weight
The portage terrain is moderately difficult, but not as bad as I was expecting. (If you have a choice you might want travel Maple Creek south to north,  thus portaging mainly downhill and paddling with the current. Also, sliding down a beaver dam is easier than lifting up and over.)


The 915 to start the day was actually pretty flat and easy going. The 190 and 130 forgettable. The 630 was steep and rocky in places. However, it was the low water, rocks just below the surface, 6 beaver dams and the weight of our barrels and packs at the beginning of a 19 day trip made the day exhausting. We had two dogs with us and every time we had to unload for a lift-over our dogs would have a lovely swim and then get back in the boat, soaking the nylon pack, adding even more weight. At the end of the day I was seriously wondering if we had what it takes to succeed.


Beaver Dam - Maple Creek


Maple Creek - low water - This part of our route was closed to canoeists after we got home.

Maple Creek is very pretty! We saw 5 Great Blue Herons, a Bittern, a Red Start and lots of water snakes and frogs.






Maple Creek at the end of the 630 portage - a much needed cool-down
We had decided to break up the creek travel by staying at the 2nd campsite heading south, just before the 805. The first campsite along the creek is awful. One of the worst I've ever seen - buggy, overgrown, no real fire pit, couldn't find the kybo. I was worried the next one would be the same, but it wasn't. We were surrounded by towering Hemlock and Pines, a bonafide tent pad cut into the land, and a nice fire pit.






The site is just off the portage trail so not private, but a nice place to stay for one night. I did get leached here and the river water is boggy. Kind of unpleasant when you desperately want a swim after a long hot sweaty day.












Saturday 11 January 2020

Day 3 - Erables Lake

Heart of the Park - Kiosk to Opeongo - Algonquin Park Canoe Trip Report

Erables Lake  - August 12 & 13

Day 3 – AUGUST 12 - Maple Creek to Maple Lake to Erables
About a 6 km paddle from the Creek to south end of Erables
805 m. around waterfalls – very steep section - nice put-in at end
130m to Maple Lake - relatively easy paddle, no beaver dams
170m into Erables - Very buggy, passes a bridge and campsite, easy terrain


Day 4 – AUGUST 13 - Rest day on Erables



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Erables Loon

Campsite Rating:
  • Water Access: Island Campsite at Point 4/5
  • Tent Sites: Room for 3 tents - nice and flat
  • Fire Pit - Just Okay, broken benches, some garbage 
  • Firewood:  Even though this is an island we didn't have any problem finding dead wood
  • Kybo - Old but acceptable 3/5
  • Swimming - Good - starts off rocky but gets deep quick, beautiful water
  • Scenery - Absolutely Gorgeous (lots of photos!)
Morning Light - Erables Lake Island Campsite


Maple and Erables are both beautiful lakes.  I can see myself visiting both again, and staying awhile. We were met with some drizzle along the way, then the lakes turned to glass and the silence was enveloping. It felt as if we were the only people on the planet. Even our paddles were hushed as they met the water.

As we paddled down Erables I did have a campsite in mind -- east shore on a point -- but it was taken and it did look very nice from the water. The sites on the west side of the lake did not look as inviting so we continued to the end hoping the island was free. It was!


The point campsite on the island looks at a picturesque bay and is very secluded. We were so happy we could have camped here for a week. Alas, we had booked ourselves only one extra day wanting to lighten the food barrels. By the end of the second day we were anxious to start moving with so much travel still in front of us.


The campsite on the point isn't the ritz, but I had a great swim, saw lots of loons and herons and the views were captivating.



The 130 meter portage into Maple Lake
A family of Cedar Waxwings on site

Erable's Island Campsite


S/W point of campsite - a good place to swim
Tent Site


There is a second campsite on the south side of the island that had terrible water access. You must climb up and over a large rock wall to where the site sits recessed on flat ground in the woods. This site does not have a view of the lake, however it is perfectly sheltered and would be welcome in bad weather.


Erables Lake In Photos









Drama in the Sky























Friday 10 January 2020

Day 5 - Skuce Lake

Heart of the Park - Kiosk to Opeongo - Algonquin Park Canoe Trip Report

 Skuce Lake


Yeah -- Lighter food barrels!


Day 5  - AUGUST 14 - Erables to Skuce 
Small lake travel
Erables to Maple Creek 660m, medium intensity, a bit hilly
90m, 695 into Skuce, not hard
Day 6 – AUGUST 15 - Rest Day on Skuce

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Skuce Lake Put-in

Campsite Rating:
  • Water Access: sandy bottom and shore
  • Tent Sites: Room for 2 tents - built in tent-pads
  • Fire Pit - Good - really old notched stumps decomposing
  • Firewood:  Tons
  • Kybo - Brand new but on one heck of a slant!
  • Swimming - Shallow and sandy, but beautiful clear water
  • Scenery - Small pretty lake

We had beautiful light and sunsets the entire trip - View across lake from Campsite










It was kind of sad to leave Erables but we were excited to be on our way. Finding the entrance to Maple Creek was a bit of a challenge in low water. We had to get out of the canoe a couple of times to navigate through rocks and silt before we were able to paddle again. The alders created a gorgeous tunnel through which to travel. It was really pretty and very quiet. However, there were a lot of large ragged rocks just below the surface between the 660 and the 90 meter ports, as well as 2 beaver dams to lift over. We were against the current and up over beaver dams the entire trip.


The portages were hilly, some steep ups and down, but not as hard as expected. The put ins and take outs were rocky and difficult. Also, probably the worst mosquitoes we encountered on the trip along these portages.



Maple Creek after leaving Erables
Arriving at Skuce Lake

Campsite on Skuce

We paddled to the first campsite on the East shore, always wanting a view of the sunset. I wasn't that thrilled as the water was low it didn't look like a good place to swim. Despite how tired we were we paddled to the site at the end of the lake. It was really rough with deep water and huge boulders to navigate to access the site, grass growing in the fire pit and no flat place for a tent.  Back to the other site that now felt like Buckingham Palace.

Skuce Lake Campsite - this is a typical 'good' site for these remote interior lakes
Campsite

The Thurderbox was way up a hill and on a scary slant (but brand new!)


Nite nite....


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